Ladies Guidelines for Choosing Clothes for Reenactment- a time line
Where do I go to get inspiration? Your best source is always a primary source- museum dresses, dated photos, original
fashion plates or antique patterns. A good secondary source are well researched books about the period you are
studying. Listening to someone's ideas of what was proper and watching movies should only be used as a source of
inspiration after you know enough about your period to distinguish what is really appropriate. Some flea market
finds can make wonderful costumes ( period fur pieces, jewelry, undergarments, and I even once found a frock coat
for only $5) but if you want to be historically accurate you need to keep in mind a few guidelines. Is the cut
of the garment right for the period I need? - Pattern cut causes fashions to look different. What am I using this
costume for? Is your purpose to teach or to entertain? It is fine to use close enoughs for skits and plays, but
for reenactors and educational endeavors like period style shows it becomes more important to be authentic. We
have a responsibility to the public not to misrepresent the past or else we are not preserving history but instead
creating our own fiction and calling it the truth. Is it going to cost more to make my costume look appropriate
than to start from scratch? Include the time it takes to redo all those seams, putting in hooks and eyes, etc.
. Illustrations taken from 
Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper's Bazar: 1867-1898
edited by Stella Blum- A Dover Books pictorial archive book.
Photos are costumes I have designed for myself or my customers- click on each to open the page with their
description.
1863-1868
Skirts -rectangular panels in skirts, very full (working class slightly less so than upper
class) elliptical shape (more weight toward back) worn over elliptical hoops
Bodices fitted with darts, evening bodices gored. Shoulder seam often to back of
shoulder. Drop Shoulders and the sleeves could be full bell shape with undersleeves,
blousing with fullness at top, or 2 piece set in at top and slimmer.
1868 Reception/Ballgown
1869-1874
Bustle and Puff period
Lots of ruching, self ruffles, lace, and puffing on outfits. Bonnets and hats were small.
Lots of drapery and trimmings. Gored Skirts (fullness to back generally pleated in) with bustled overskirts. Skirts
worn over bustles instead of hoops, Sleeves are generally
slimmer than preceding period
.
From Early 1870's Left to Right- walking/visiting dress, home dress, Reception Dress, Afternoon/Vistiting Dress
bustle era patterns available here
1875-1882
Natural form period.
Sleeves (still cut 2 piece) and skirts much slimmer, bustle almost non-existent. Skirts
skimmed hips and thighs. New preference for darker colors and heavier fabrics and trim. A vertical look was desired,
skirts hitting their slimmest point about 1880. Trains on skirts also favored, especially in the upper class. Neck
was now covered by a small stand up collar during the day.
L-R Natural form Reception gown, Natural form work/day dresses(Allie
pattern available here)
1883-1889
The Bustle Era
The bustle expanded to its greatest point during the latter part of this era. Bodices were generally tightly
fitted coming slightly below the waistline, sleeves were slim with little or no fullness at the shoulder. Draped
overskirts were very popular, and could be formed any manner of ways. Neckline for the day was generally covering
the throat by at least 1 ".
From Left to Right:1880's Polonaise Outfit, 1880's Ballgown, 1880's Visiting Dress, Mid/late 1880's Tailormade
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